Відео

Likely not a standardised, easy to find part. A bit of rust is totally fine. Scrape/sand as much as you can off and it's good to go again.

@@jusufuswaray8339 not getting good results in which way? Lack of power? Distortion? Some parts uneven? The engraving not being detailed enough? General things to keep in mind: - Ceramic is glossy, might need laser engraving spray paint to dull the surface first and then you wash it off. - is the surface level? Measure you laser head distance in all 4 corners and ensure its identical - Is the focus distance correct? - when's the last time you cleaned the lens? - check the settings within lightburn - more watts on a diode laser (10w vs 30w) helps cutting faster but it can have a negative effect on engraving since the laser dot is larger and there for the resolution you get out of the Laser is different. lower watt diode laser generally has better engraving quality, thought perhaps won't be as fast if high power is needed.

@@jokoivi fuzzy, kinda distorted, not dark enough, and for some reason my 10watts crealty engraver is giving more power! When etching ceramic you always have to coat the tile with spray paint which I always do. All the surface is equally leveled. I don’t cut, hardly ever engrave on wood, most of my work is tile etching. The engraver is brand new I just got possession of it, I haven’t had it for up to 2 weeks. I spent a lot of money to fedx it to me in Africa.

Is it possible to order just the laser module. I’m wondering if I get the 22watts laser head since it’s less power if I’ll get better details because I etch photos on tiles. I don’t use light burn I use Laser GRBL

@@jusufuswaray8339 I'd first just Google the issue and try debugging - could be focus, could be software related issues. Also just take photos of the problematic engraving and post on diode laser Facebook or reddit groups... Often there's people who've seen similar issues and know the reason. As for a replacement module. Mecpow doesnt sell them directly on the website but I've seen people posting about replacing them with ones off AliExpress on mecpow's Facebook group. Might also message their support for a solution? I'm just a random dude who bought one for the fun of it, so my knowledge is limited ;)

Might actually be enough for 2m. I ended up trimming my ends by about 10cm. Since it was a bit too long to work well with my ceiling. But hard to say, also depends on the general size of the person. I'd likely go with test fitting or prototyping if I had a similar issue.

@@miyafoxy2540 only on the sides. Might be that new models have changed?

@@jokoivi Mine is from 2018 😭 4 days removing this amount of glue. But it will work.

@@AerialTheShamen really doubtful. Laser welding works by focusing a high-energy laser beam to melt the materials being joined. latex however is a thermosetting polymer, which means that it doesn't melt and re-solidify like thermoplastics. Instead, it decomposes when exposed to high heat. When latex is heated beyond a certain point, it can degrade, char, or even catch fire rather than melting and allowing for welding. Gluing it is a fascinating on its own since it relies on cohesive bonding & chemical bonding, making it tough AF

@@jokoivi I mean pulsed lasers can do funny things like removing few atoms thick layers of a surface, so it is more than conventional heat welding. There are e.g. also methods to locally devulcanize latex by ultrasound, which makes it sticky and mostly solidify again after a while, which may be used for welding. It would not surprise me if ultra-short laser pulses can do similar stuff.

radicalrubber.co.uk

Unscrewed what? And tried to turn it on when reassembled or when opened up? Missing context to really help you here...

@@jokoivi Thanks for the answer. Sorry, I wrote quickly and using a translator. Let me explain. I would like to point out that I am completely green when it comes to repairs and DIY. At first I noticed that it was losing connection to the electricity, so I opened it and saw that one of the copper cables had broken off from the green panel. I connected it, secured it with insulating tape and everything was fine, but when I try to turn it on there is a slight vibration, the buttons flash twice and it turns off. As if he didn't have the strength to move. Do you think it's the fault of these two small 604RS wheels?

@@adrianczerniawski2215 1. I hope you soldered the wire, not just attached it with tape? It measures resistance, so just taping it would not be enough. 2. Did you de-assemble the head where bearings are inside of? It can happen when you re-assemble that the bearings are not sitting very well, or the rubber ring is not flush, so it would jam up 3. Could just be the bearings as well. Just try to spin them with your fingers and see if they are atuck

@@jokoivi I thought it would be best to solder it, but I don't have a soldering iron and I've never done it. I twisted the cable neatly around the protruding metal and secured it with tape. Additionally, I secured the cable so that it does not move, so everything is stiff. I did as in the video, I took off the rubber, unscrewed the head and the bearings don't look too bad, the orange rubbers are probably fine too. I wrote to you on Instagram because I have a video when I want to turn it on. If you could take a look, I would be very grateful

Bearings always look fine on the outside, you need to spin them with your fingers to see if there is any resistance. If they spun fine, then I'd start with testing it by turning it on for a few moments without the head screwed on - if it has the same issue, you'll need to find a soldering iron first to fix it proper, they cost nothing really. If it spins fine, it's likely issues with the bearings or assembly. Could still be the soldering as well. Can't really help you further than this.

Dutch or not, your videos definitely played a big part in getting it, so much appreciated ;)

@@jokoivi, thanks!

Glad to help ;)

worked perfectly! slight more of a dull wobble sound than when brand new but the power is back fully and i couldn't be more pleased

Glad this was useful and yeah, the new way is so much easier, taking stuff apart often reveals better ways of doing things :)

@jokoivi sorry for so many questions, I just want to do the right thing here 😅

Original was glass as well, just 1mm thinner with a matted surface. And I specifically went with glass because plexiglass is too soft - the pen would scratch it up real easily and it would flex under your hand with such a large panel and small thickness. And Plexi has plenty of reflections as well since its not the material, rather surface smoothness which causes it.

Havent tried it. Maybe? Large self healing cutting mats are great though if you can find aome

Perhaps the button contacts have a bit of liquid damage? Fx the speed up being always pressed? If if the warranty has passed, Could try opening it up and cleaning the circuit board under the rubber buttons with alcohol

Possible names and an eu store link listed in the video description ;)

Exactly, have finally managed to find a mat large enough for that since I made the video

I have the same issue as of 3 days ago but I have an old OG model. I was going to try replacing the bearings as the board appears to be okay. Unfortunately, the housing on the head has some difficult to find bits. They look like torx but none of my torx head fit them.

I got the same issue, this is my third one with the same issue but i got the OG one

Much appreciated ❤️

Sorry for the late reply, had not noticed the comment. I'm not really great at making patterns from scratch myself, logic wise, it does make sense to add space that matches the width of the glued seam... But it depends on the thickness of the latex, your own body size, etc. Thin stuff does stretch quite a bit, thick stuff less so - fx i used the same pattern for the panties where the red fit perfectly while the thicker pink was a tight squeeze. Also when using patterns meant for normal clothing, i think are guidelines to scale them down a tiny bit to account for the stretch - you'll need to Google for those details though, I'm lacking the knowledge.

Repaired another one since... Used a sturdy steel bracket where i cut a slit into it with an angle grinder so i could slide it underneath the ring(bearing) to support it on 3 sides. then i placed the bracket on supports on the sides so i could hammer the shaft in the middle using a thin steel rod (probably going to do a new video on that since i also figure out how to do it without de-assembling the wand casing)

I need a new neck for mine any suggestions

@jokojovi i am i the same step, the lower ball bearing needs replacement on mine but I cant get the neck off

Because latex is meant to be glued. Im pretty sure that threads pierced through the latex by sewing would tear it apart if you tried to stretch the seams